The SL310 Micro is CSM's new gyro for newbie heli flyers. It's designed to give the maximum support to beginners learning hovering and simple flight.

So it isn't the SL310 in a smaller box?

No! The box is a lot smaller - at 24 x 24 x 20mm - but it now comes with optional digital servo support, Second Integral Heading Lock, and a new internal code to make it particularly suitable for hovering and simple flight.

I don't have a lot of money to spare - do I really need a dual mode CSM gyro?

A big question for many beginners is, 'Should I start with Conventional or Heading Lock?'
Most experienced flyers use Heading Lock, so it is important to get used to it as soon as possible. However, beginners often find conventional gyros easier in simple flight, as the helicopter points the way it is going.

The SL310 Micro gives the best of both worlds. SmartLock gyros give the choice of both SmartLock ('Heading Lock with brains') and Standard Mode.

There is a full range of SmartLock gyros, so you will find it easy to move up the range as you progress. With CSM, you can also be certain of full technical and customer support - if you have any set-up questions, just call us!

But won't I have to upgrade fairly soon anyway?

The SL310 will not allow fast pirouettes and advanced aerobatics. We wish you the best of luck in getting this far! But many people spend months and even years on the basics, and a good beginner's gyro is important in giving you the support you need to learn quickly.

The SL310 Micro is also similar enough to the SL420, SL560 and SL720 that you will find it easy to get used to these gyros when you upgrade. We also recommend a RevLock engine governor for beginners. These are easy to set up when used with a basic engine (30 or 50 size with a muffler) and will reduce the amount of fiddling with throttle and pitch curves that you would otherwise need to do as you progress.

Will I need an expensive servo?

No - the SL310 Micro can be used with either conventional or digital servos. CSM has pioneered Second Integral Heading Lock which enhances the performance of the slower servos. We recommend you upgrade to a digital servo as and when you can afford it - and there will be no need to change your gyro!

I want to fly an electric heli - will the SL310 be suitable?

Unfortunately, small ('450' size or less) electric helis are very quick and sensitive, which can make them difficult for beginners, and we do not recommend them. If you do wish to try a small model, we would recommend our Micro SL420e gyro which is set up specifically for small electric models.

If you want to fly a very small indoor heli, you may prefer to use the LG180, which was originally designed for the Hornet.

Is the SL310 Micro suitable for the bigger helis?

We don't recommend using the SL310 in 60 or 90 size helis or petrol driven helis.

I don't know much about helicopters yet. Will I find the gyro difficult to set up?

The ICG180 and HLG200 both need to be adjusted by hand, but the SL310 Micro has a Quick Setup routine, which is done on the ground, making the setup simple and accurate. There is also an optional Quick Trim procedure, which is done in flight, and removes most errors in tail linkage.
The more difficult aspect for beginners is setting up the helicopter and transmitter. The gyro manual includes tips on perfecting the helicopter setup. The CSM team are also happy to help - just call us or send an email.

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Find out more about the CSM SL310 Micro

Troubleshooting

The gyro will not enter the Quick-Setup routine

The gain is probably too low - increase the gain for both modes to 100% for now, and return them to the desired setting later. Remember also to turn off ATS (revo) mixing.

The model pirouettes violently as soon as it starts to lift off

The gyro sense has been set incorrectly. Check that the servo operating sense has been set correctly - when you put in a left turn command, the leading (fatter) edges of the tail rotor blades should point right. If this is not happening, change the servo reversing of the tail rotor channel in your transmitter. Then repeat Quick Setup to set the gyro sense correctly.

The tail wags from side to side in the hover

Reduce the gyro gain, using the ATV/travel adjust on your gain channel

The model flies fine in one gyro mode but wags in the other

You have too much gain in just the one mode. Reduce the gain on the mode that wags.

The tail response is not crisp enough

Increase the gyro gain. It is best to increase it gradually, until you see the tail start to wag, and then reduce it again until the wag stops.

The model wags even when the gain is very low

The problem is probably with the linkage - check that the linkage is not suffering from slop or friction, and that the tail hub bearings do not lock up under load. You should also check your servo. A slow servo or a very short servo arm may also cause this problem.

In mode 1, the model slowly rotates

Carry out the Quick Setup again, so that the gyro can sample an accurate stick centre value. Remember to keep the stick trims centred, and not to touch the sticks or the model during the power up time.

The model hovers well in mode 1, but rotates in mode 0

Repeat the Quick Trim procedure.

Even in calm conditions, the model suffers continuous small movements of the tail. It sometimes appears to drift.

The problem is most likely to be caused by vibration. Check that the wires leading to the gyro are properly supported - a long stretch of flapping wire may cause the gyro to move too much, and an over-tight anchorage may prevent the anti-vibration mount from working correctly.

The model flies fine on the first flight, but after a while the tail starts to wag

Fast gyro and servo combinations can run down the battery. Cycle the receiver battery and check its performance. You should consider using a fast Delta-peak charger to top up the battery between flights.

The model was fine last season, but now the tail wags

Check that the tail control linkage moves freely, paying especial attention to the pitch slider and the tail hub bearings. The receiver battery may have developed a high internal resistance - cycle the battery and check the capacity. The capacity may seem normal at low discharge rates but drop suddenly at say 3 amps.

The left and right hand stops are not equal. On one side the stops are slow and on the other they are bouncy.

Carry out Quick Trim, and make adjustments to the linkage if necessary (see the manual for details). See the Stop Equalisation section above.

I am running a high gyro gain, but the stops from high-speed pirouettes are still too slow.

The maximum available tail thrust is too low. The best ways of increasing the tail authority are: increase the pitch range of the tail; change the tail gear ratio to increase the tail rotor rpm (only possible on some machines); increase the length of the tail blades. Caution: when increasing the tail blade lengths, check that there is still sufficient clearance between the tail blades and main blades. If you cannot increase the tail blade length, then increase the chord of the tail blades.

The model twitches erratically and violently in yaw.

If you are using a belt-driven tail, then the problem is probably static electricity. If this problem is not sorted, then it may cause damage to the electronics on your helicopter. An anti-static spray on the belt is the easiest solution. It is also possible to get grounding systems which ground the electricity safely.

If you are still having problems, or would like any advice about improving the performance of your gyro and helicopter, please contact us:

email: tech@csm-ltd.co.uk
tel: 01457 854680 within Britain and 44 1457 854680 outside.